THIS
Indonesia page - Page 1
Indonesia,
page 2: Lembata to Makassar
Indonesia, page 3 - Makassar
Indonesia,
page 4 - Makassar to Lombok, the accident
Chrissi
describes our Indonesian Adventures
Text and the page layout
is by Jack , photos by Jack and by Chrissi
.
How do we express
our utter delight with our adventures throughout
the vast island nation of Indonesia! Here's
a country whose cultures range from Head
Hunting in some remote areas to the highest
and most sophisticated arts in others. Dance,
music, painting, sculpture, and temple architecture
are frequently nothing short of breathtaking.
Muslim, Hindu, Animist, and Christian generally
live in harmony and mutual respect. Here's
a country whose military slaughtered 500,000
people to prevent a red uprising of the poor
in 1965 and to maintain the privileges of
the still very privileged rich. Here's a
country of vulcanism and earthquakes that's
called the Ring of Fire, a country with the
most awsome and diverse scenery and with no
cyclone / hurricane season. And most of all
Indonesia is an archipelago of the most friendly
smiling and super-humanly generous people.
We loved our time in breathtaking Indonesia
- one of the most special places we've ever
visited.
It's worth a visit to the Sail
Indonesia Rally website. You'll learn
more about the Rally and the country. There
are links to other cruisers' experiences
and resources. And if you're in the region,
you might want to sign up for the next
Rally! I guess this is a good place to
thank Rally organizers Ray and Dewie and
David, along with all who helped them,
for leading us to discover wonderous
Indonesia.
The
Sail Indonesia Rally was our ticket
to all this and a lot more. It was the best
"ticket" for the money that any
of us had ever bought - by far!
We don't normally sail in company.
And we certainly had never sailed in a "rally"
with something like 100 boats! So this was
a new experiment for us. Why did we try it?
The CAIT -
Indonesia is a sufficiently
"traditional" type of country that getting
anything done that involves government is
normal expensive, time consuming, tricky,
and difficult. We needed a CAIT to cruise
there - a cruising permit. This is something
you get BEFORE you arrive - or you risk being
expelled or worse. Normally getting the CAIT
involves finding an agent in Indonesia to
do the footwork (and palm greasing) for you.
You hope this person is efficient and honest
and that he will indeed get you your CAIT
- in a timely manner and at the least possible
expense. All this is done by phone or fax
or Internet - and requires faith, patience,
and a certain amount of luck.
Sail Indonesia? You send some
email attachments and make a reasonable payment
to them in a bank - and your CAIT is ready
and waiting for you in Darwin before you
leave for Indonesia! THAT'S reason enough
to do the rally! But it gets much better.
It would be hard to count the
number of "galla dinners" that were included
free for the price of entry into the Rally.
We've lost count of the number Village and
Regional events that hosted us and treated
us with respect and kindness - and, yes,
even as VIP's. There were extravagant tours
- both paid and free - that revealed many
aspects of this remote and fascinating land
and culture.
Sail Indonesia makes it easy
to figure an itinerary in this vast and varied
archipelago. The mysteries of weather systems
and currents and times of year and good places
versus not so good places - all these mysteries
are magically dealt with by
the experienced organizers of the Rally!
We hadn't had time to research all this
complex and obscure stuff at all, so by being
part of the the rally it was all figured
in advance!
So. Sail Indonesia? 100% Positive
Recommendation. It's the best way to go
sailing in Indonesia.
The Start -
We intentionally made a terrible
Start on July 22nd from Darwin - way back
in the fleet. That way we got to pass everyone!
Here we go! And there's only about 92 boats
to pass!
It was moderate winds for the "start" and
it quickly demanded spinnakers. By the time
night fell we had pretty much lost the fleet
behind us.
The weather was light and fickle,the perfect
situation for everyone to try differing tactics.
The mystery, or course, would
quickly become: where is everyone else?
The Rally Route -
Here's the route we took
with the Rally through Indonesia. A lot of
boats went their own way, sometime with the
"fleet" and sometimes completely off on their
own. We basically stuck to the Rally's very
good intinerary. It included visits to Kupang
in West Timor, Alor to the northeast, Lembata,
Ruing in Flores, and northwestward to the
old spice capital, Makassar. Onward then
to islands off Lombok, including Gilly Lawang
in the northeast and Gilly Aer in the northwest,
and to the magical mystical super-busy island
of Bali, the island of endless temples, artisans
and art and charm. Northwestward again with
visits to a number of places, especially
the very charming island of Bawean, and finally
to the region of SMOKE - off Borneo/Kalimantan
and the nearby islands of Surutu and Pejantan.
The rally finished at Batam's Nongsa Point,
and then we went off to Singapore - where
we would continue our trek - with the Sail
Asia Rally! We were three months in Indonesia,
and sailed or motored about three thousand
miles.
Kupang waterfront.
Yes, Kupang is a funky city, one of the
least attractive places in the region. But
it was great to be there - such a refreshing
change to be back in the cheap and friendly " third
world" where smiles and ease come so
naturally.
The sail to Kupang had been
a light air affair, and sometimes a "no air"
affair, but the seas were kind and the city
was welcoming. After a few days of festivities
- we were a special event there! - we were
off on a slow overnight light air sail against
currents up to 4 knots, destination Kalibata,
the main "city" on the island of Alor!
We
were certainly received as honored celebrities
in Alor - most especially by the children!
There's Chrissi surrounded by this enthusiastic
crowd, and that's our traveling home, Naga,
just behind. The kids somehow had this thing
about getting our names and addresses and
autographs in their notebooks and we finally
resorted to using stamps to speed the process.
Did their teachers put them up to it? No
matter: such enthusiam and happiness!
Our arrival coincided with
an annual regional Cultural Festival, with
visiting artists and acts from all over the
state. That was one of the great things about
the Rally - much of our itinerary put us
right into the middle of special events,
and we became a part of the events. Lovely.
These flute players serenaded
the Festival and us along with traditional
gongs. Wonderful and lovely.
Welcome to Alor's "traditional
village"
of Takpala! We
visited Takpala with a bunch of other yachties
on our first excursion tour with the Rally.
The traditional dance and its accompanying
rhythm and singing was mesmerizing. And
it was just a start of our introduction to
Indonesia's otherworldly mesmerzing cultures.
This fella was, in fact, very
friendly, but traditional foes back in the
good old days would have had to look out
and be fast on their feet!
A sussuru of hypnotic rhythms
and the plaintive wailing songs of several
transported us to far away times
and places where we shared some deep stuff.
At least that's how I responded. . .
Click
Here for a
little video
of Takpala Dance
(opens in a new window)
Ah, the Naga Boat -
Yes, Naga, of course, is the name
of our boat. And as it has turned out here
in South Asia, it was a very well-chosen
name indeed! There are enormous varieties
of the Naga stories, myths, and legends in
these parts, but these dragons / sea serpents
are in every case that we know of very benevolent
and special entities.
In Alor local mythology tells of the original
inhabitants of the island arriving
on a Naga Boat. And the myth goes on that
a special Naga lives under the island and
protects its population.
We were very specially welcomed everywhere
we went when the people discoved that we
had arrived on NAGA.
This photo, taken in the
Kalibata, Alor, museum, depicts the original
Naga Boat
that brought the first inhabitants
to the island.
From Alor, we sailed on to
Lembata with a stop at "Murder Island"
along the way.
Use these Links to Continue:
Indonesia,
page 2: Lembata to Makassar
Indonesia,
page 3 - Makassar
Indonesia,
page 4 - Makassar to Lombok, the accident
Chrissi
describes our Indonesian Adventures |